From Voice ~ Topics: biographies, case studies

Martha Stewart: When Good Things Come to an End

On the cover of her magazines, Martha Stewart could turn a short list of words into a Dada poem on a par with one by of André Breton:

“an autumn river party/ halloween lanterns/ the evolution of tables/ making bread/ organizing recipes/ marzipan”

“lilacs/ lunch in harlem/ wine 101/ personal stationery/ shelves/ wreaths & garlands”

“canopies/ perfect burgers/ backpacking in Wyoming/ arranging flowers/ low-fat frozen desserts/ berries”

A caterer by profession, she knew how to create memorable table settings or bouquets with a few simple things—found objects, ribbons, party favors, flowers or fruits. When she became a magazine editor in the early 1990s, she was able to translate this talent on paper, making whimsical word-and-picture arrangements the same way she had decorated buffet tables or designed centerpieces for wedding receptions.

Over the next decade, Martha Stewart—with her loyal staff of editors, stylists and designers—kept arranging and re-arranging words and images on the pages of her magazines (Martha Stewart Living, Weddings, Kids, Babies, Everyday Food) and catalogues, inventorying in the process every household object, every product, every decorative item, and every kitchen implement known to man and woman. A monumental undertaking in hindsight, it amounted to nothing less than the full compilation of every American domestic fantasies at the end of the 20th century.

 

Martha became the patron saint of small things. Things like buckwheat pillows, cinnamon candles, marshmallow snowflakes, rickrack borders, taffy twigs, cranberry wreaths, sugar flowers, citrus coolers, baguette flatware, trumpet vases, leaf tags, wine journals, pet gifts and miniature cupcakes.


Things she would christen “good things” by naming them with that uncanny flair for words that was as much part of her genius as her ability to make a perfect raspberry-swirl cheesecake or turn a garden gate into a headboard.

Encyclopedic endeavors like the compendium Martha Stewart had unwittingly assembled have always been fraught with controversy. Because they attempt to create complete systems of learning, encyclopedias are ambitious projects that are inevitably skewed. As such, they generate differences of opinion and elicit criticisms from both lay people and experts. This is the reason Martha Stewart was not universally popular. What seems to have offended most people about her were not her coy views on domesticity (as annoying as they were at times), but her implicit assumptions about the “good things” she had championed.

Coincidentally, the most famous of all encyclopedists, French philosopher Denis Diderot, editor and contributor of the “Encyclopédie” (first published in 1751) was also convicted and sent to jail for three months. His crime? To uphold in his writing a secular approach, one that promoted tolerance and open-mindedness over faith and religion. In the mid-eighteen century, in what was the dawn of the Age of Enlightenment, a “rational dictionary,” as the encyclopedia was also called, was considered a daring expression of materialist atheism.

Like the 18th century French intellectuals who penned the Encyclopédie, Martha too promoted reason above emotions, encouraging her readers and television viewers to embrace a methodical rather than a spiritual approach. Her how-to tutorials, conducted with no-nonsense precision, made no room for human errors. Impatient with all foibles—notably with the foibles of her employees—she had garnered a reputation of being a harsh perfectionist.

Martha’s distrust of sentimentality was probably her greatest originality—a critical factor in her downfall, but also the reason for the success Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, her media empire. She perfected this dispassionate style on the covers of her magazine in the mid-1990s. During this period, she practiced amazing linguistic restrain at the newsstand. Instead of using expressive coverlines, as one would expect from a mass-market publication targeting women, she eschewed all calls to action. She was so intent on minimizing excitement that she never encouraged readers to do anything—even though the magazine was supposed to profess a do-it-yourself approach. There were never any verbs on the covers. Never any imperatives. Nothing stated in the declarative form. Gerunds, grammatical constructions that indicate that the action is uncompleted, were the only permissible forms of engagement. In the controlled universe of Martha Stewart Living, everything seems to happen in slow motion, with words like stuffing, arranging, carving, organizing, growing, wrapping, entertaining, nesting, painting, and decorating repeatedly used as nouns.

Featuring minimal word collages in the surrealist manner—“magnolias/ foraging/ egg decorations/ furniture screens/ a greek easter dinner”—the magazine covers also made a minimal use of colors. Keeping the lid on emotions was a palette of subdued colors dominated by hypnotic pastel tones. More often than not, a soothing greenish hue, the archetypal Martha Stewart color, added a note of placidity to the already cool overall picture.

Once, in the May 1999 issue, I noticed a verb in the active voice on the cover of the magazine. Though it was a discreet “make it yourself” next to a photograph of an ice cream sandwich, I was startled. What? Is Martha tampering with her message, I wondered? Is she buckling under pressure from investors who want her to relinquish some of her authority and “empower” her readers instead? I had always admired Martha Stewart’s flawless determination to keep total control over her product. The woman knew exactly what she was doing and why. She gave her audience small, tidy, and concise epiphanies that did not require any personal initiative, and thus did not create any undue anxiety. In my estimation, the “make it yourself” admonition on the cover marked a drastic departure from the magazine’s initial editorial position—one that proclaimed that Martha Stewart was the only person who had the authority to make anything happen.

I was relieved to find out that the “empowering” experiment was short lived. In subsequent issues, coverlines never again exhorted readers to take initiatives—at least, not to my knowledge. Showing a genuine understanding of the deep insecurities that motivate shoppers to spend an extra $4.75 at the checkout counter for an issue of her magazine, Martha focused her attention back again on what she did best, which was to create month after month a visual glossary of the contemplative pleasures of deferred domesticity.

Over the years, Martha’s way with images had become as persuasive as her way with words. Photographs in MSL all captured things with the same clarity and precision as the etchings done centuries ago for the first encyclopedias. The photographs were not illustrations, they were documents showing the weave of a fabric, the texture of a fruit, the temperature of a liquid, the weight of an object, the sharpness of a tool—and the fragility of a moment of fleeting perfection. A signature Martha Stewart’s photograph today is one where the lens faithfully translates every nuances of the thing it scrutinizes. Nothing distracting is ever added. Shadows only serve to give more weight to a pine cone or more depth to a table setting. Artistic blur, an early MSL trademark now copied by every publication, is used sparingly to emphasize the creamy quality of a custard or the frostiness of a porcelain dish.

For Martha Stewart, it’s all about information. Direct, jubilant, virtuosic information. While other large circulation women’s magazines dole out what they call “service”—advice, pointers and tips—she refuses to talk down to her readers and viewers. Completely absorbed into the material world, she worships facts, small facts. Since her first issue of the magazine, in December 1990, she has anthologized every single American episode having to do with hearth and home. Every good thing. Every holiday celebration. Every small ritual. Every family event. Every nostalgic memory, real or not. And she has done all of that without ever being maudlin or sentimental.

In the end, though, she forgot that she was human. She built her empire on things—on good things. She could not imagine that she might one day lose it all to a single instant of bad judgment.

About the Author: Véronique Vienne first studied architecture at the École Des Beaux Arts in Paris. She now teaches in the MFA program at The School of Visual Arts in New York City,and writes about design for a wide range of publications.

  1. link to this comment by sam Mon May 17, 2004

    My friends think I'm weird, but I admire Ms Stewart and what she's accomplished for design. She raised the bar. I know people who work for her magazines, and they do great work. Sure its a formula, but there could be worse formula's to follow. Frankly, I've learned a lot about minimalism and elegance from MS Living in all its incarnations. I hope her bad judgement doesn't put a crimp in her good judgement.

  2. link to this comment by Ozzie Moran Thu May 20, 2004

    In the age of brands no one does it better than Martha. She is the frito bandito, Speedy Alka Seltzer, and Mrs. Pauls all rolled into a post-post-Modern derma. I for one have long admired how she became her brand. I admire how she used design smartly, deliberately, and elegantly and so doing raised the standard of mass culture. Isn't it true that most everyone who reaches a position of importance has some skeleton in the closet. Hey, she made a mistake, but she didn't pose nude for Hustler, or lie to the Nation about WMD, or steal an election. She actually did good for America. And this is how America repays her.

  3. link to this comment by royce b Sat May 22, 2004

    I wonder whether the public understands that Martha Stewart is a doyen of design? There is, afterall, a difference between promoting lifestyle and design style. I think Stewart brilliantly does both, but while the majority of the great washed buys into her style-mongering, along with Steve Jobs, she is probably the most influential design maven of the late 20th-21st centuries.

  4. link to this comment by Steven Heller Sun May 23, 2004

    Vienne writes "For Martha Stewart, it’s all about information. Direct, jubilant, virtuosic information."

    A few years ago i was asked to write a article on household street numbers for "Martha Stewart Living." The brief was to explain how these numbers came into being (seemingly obvious, but actually difficult to find this information), who or what entity designed them in the first place (also difficult to identify, even on the web), and what styles exist that add design value to a home (easier to find through companies that make the numerals).

    When I asked the editor why they wanted me to write this, rather than one of their inhouse or freelance style reporters, I was told that the editors wanted a design historical approach, while at the same time the article had to give a service to the readers.

    I was impressed that MSL cared enough about design to include history in what in any other shelter magazine could have been a straight service piece.

    Regrettably, I had schedule conflicts and could not write the article. But I started to notice that MSL injected design criticism into its columns. Not the scholarly kind common to design magazines, but enough to educate an audience for whom design was exclusively style.

  5. link to this comment by mollie Mon May 24, 2004

    I admire Martha Stewart. As a new business owner, I plan to have a photograph of Martha in each of our offices. I think Martha is an excellent example of what you can do right in business when you listen to what "the people" want and what you can do wrong in business if you become isolated from "the people".

    Does anyone have a source for a flattering and serious portrait of Martha Stewart?

  6. link to this comment by Michelle Fri May 28, 2004

    She just amazes me. I can't believe how many other magazines now copy her style...same color schemes, same clean clean look. The design is non-threatening...soothing, just like her use of words...I love it. And I love that She offers knowledge to women...not just tips. As a modern woman in her twenties, she has made me embrace my secret fifties housewife desires...and extoll their virtues to all my punk rock friends...She is an inspiration as woman, as a businessperson..and dare I say it it...as a homemaker. The only thing, like everyone knows...is that weird absence of emotion in her stuff, when the beauty of "home" genre is that it is tied to the conceptof "home":love, family, memories, smiles, tears...and well, emotions. Beautiful and perfect is a "good thing", but loved, appreciated, enjoyed is a "better thing."

  7. link to this comment by Ellen Shapiro Fri May 28, 2004

    If prostitution is a crime, why is it that the "girls" get arrested and may have to go to jail while the "johns" go free? Why is Martha the criminal? If she acted on an insider tip, it seems that the real culprit is the Wall Street culture that utilizes handsome, socially connected brokers who pass along tips to churn sales and instill customer loyalty among the rich and famous and influential, who in turn tell their friends: "Isn’t it nice to have brokers who tell you these things." The Feds should go after the CEO and chairman and head of retail brokerage of Merrill Lynch, not the individual clients who fall for the bait.

  8. link to this comment by Liz Barras Sat May 29, 2004

    By reading her magazine, I learned all about the effectiveness of properly used white space. Martha's use of white space gave areas on the page for me to mentally sketch-"breathe"-or imagine as I read about creative and inspirational "good things." Even though the publication is filled with adds, the pages with content promote the idea that less is still more...

  9. link to this comment by Cheryl Patrick Fri Jun 11, 2004

    No doubt Martha has mastered branding. Her team makes every day products desirable through wonderful design. However, have you ever bought Martha Stuart products? I have and ... well ... her products suck! Garden tools rust, garden hoses leak, the paint on wood products chip off immediately. oh, and her beautifully designed seed packet... well, let's just say that the seeds never bloom!
    GREAT DESIGN but POOR PRODUCT!

  10. link to this comment by Lucy Lustig Fri Jun 25, 2004

    I met Martha Stewart at a home improvement show in 1991. She signed my copy of her brand new then book MARTHA STEWART GARDENING...month by month. I was a Shiatsu practitioner, macrobiotic cook, and a former Girl Scout and she listened to my idea for an article.
    She even gave me the number of her publisist which I still have in the back of an old Daytimer somewhere. this changed my life. It made me realize that people who had power who where famous could be interested in my ideas. It has made me more interested in my ideas. I never made that phone call. Maybe its time to see if the number is in service.

  11. link to this comment by PUNKIN Thu Sep 22, 2005

    YOU GO MARTHA!!!!!!!!!!!

  12. link to this comment by Lograph Fri Mar 31, 2006

    Does anyone have a source for a flattering and serious portrait of Martha Stewart?

  13. link to this comment by Allo Fri Mar 31, 2006

    I think Stewart brilliantly does both

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